The No-Nonsense Guide to Choosing the Perfect Diamond for Any Occasion

Introduction

Diamonds have earned their place as the highest symbol of love and devotion. And with good reason—they’re radiant, reflective, brilliant. They’re also the hardest mineral on Earth, making them an enduring reminder of your commitment; a faithful keeper of memories over a lifetime.

But when it comes to choosing the right diamond, many of us get cold feet. The mysterious world of gems can feel impenetrable and intimidating—especially when you consider the financial cost of making a mistake.

Luckily, it’s not as complicated as you think. In this article, we break down everything you need to know when choosing a diamond, conveniently called the 4Cs. In order of importance, they are:

Cut

Color

Carat

Clarity

We’ll also give you some insider tips on how to get the best diamond for your budget. So take a deep breath, break out your notebook, and let’s jump right in!

What to Look for When Buying Diamonds

Cut

When it comes to diamonds, cut is king. Cut is what gives the diamond its sparkle and its shine. It’s the wow-factor. High-quality cuts imbue a diamond with life, while poor cuts can transform a stone into a dull and lifeless rock—bleh.

According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), there are five tiers of cut grade.

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

Likewise, the American Gem Society (AGS) uses a similar rating scale.

Ideal

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

When shopping for a diamond, there are many ways to save money without compromising appearance. Cut is not one of those ways! As the diamond’s most beautiful quality, we recommend choosing something no less than Very Good or, if possible, Excellent.

Cut is also related to size and shape. There are 8 diamond shapes you’ll frequently see mounted on an engagement band. The Round shape is considered the standard; it’s the baseline for comparing the surface area of all other shapes. Why is this important? Because the surface area of a diamond is what catches the eye.

The Marquis boasts the greatest surface area—a whopping 15% more than the Round, while the Asscher has a surface area that’s 15% less. While you might be tempted to go straight for the Marquis, consider that more surface area usually means more money.

In fact, rounded shapes are more expensive than squared shapes. They require more labor, more precision, and more discarded material. Of course, the result is more facets and, by extension, more brilliance. It’s therefore no surprise that Rounds are the most expensive.

Colour

The GIA Colour Scale goes from D through Z. The D-side represents the epitome of clarity—a brilliant luminescence that reflects light like nobody’s business. Meanwhile, the Z-end of the spectrum represents diamonds which give off a yellowish hue.

The D-F portion of the scale is referred to as colorless, while the G-J range is known as semi-colorless. Ks, Ls, and Ms are considered bargain stones. Interestingly, diamonds beyond the light yellow colour range (S-Z) are actually valued for their fancy color designation. Most diamonds on the market fall somewhere in the D through L range.

Majesty Tip: Colour doesn’t come from the top of the stone—it comes from the bottom. That’s why it can sometimes be difficult for even expert appraisers to recognize the color grade of a stone. This is especially true of Rounds, which hide color imperfections better than, say, Emeralds. This is because Rounds have greater depth and a pointed culet (bottom surface area). Emeralds, on the other hand, have wide and shallow bottoms, making their imperfections more noticeable from above.

So, what’s the sweet-spot? The semi-colourless range (G-J) is the perfect intersection between colour and price. In fact, anything above H falls into the diminishing returns category: you pay more with nothing to show for it (unless you’re into diamond microscopy). As mentioned, Rounds are the most expensive shape, but you can settle for an I or J color-grade without affecting the look. For shapes like Emeralds, an H or G is best.

Carat

Carat is a measure of a diamond’s weight (not to be confused with karat, a unit of measurement that describes the purity of gold). One diamond carat is equal to 200 milligrams.

As a rule of thumb, the more carats, the more expensive the diamond. What most people don’t realize, however, is that a four-carat diamond is not merely four times as expensive as a one-carat diamond—it can be many, many times more expensive!

This seems counterintuitive. After all, buying anything in bulk usually translates to a reduced price, right? But consider that diamonds aren’t produced in a factory, they’re produced by the Earth herself. And, as it happens, heavier diamonds are more rare in nature. So when it comes to heavy stones, you’re not just paying for the increased carat weight—you’re paying for its preciousness.

Another point to remember is that carat weight is not the same as diamond size. For instance, a diamond with a 6.2mm diameter could have the same carat weight as one with a 6.6mm diameter—that’s a 13% difference when viewed face-up! This usually occurs when a diamond is poorly cut, hiding its carat weight in the bottom of the stone or in the girdle where it can’t be seen.

Majesty Tip: Shopping for your lover? Choose something that reflects who they are; take into account their finger shape and size, as well as their personal preferences. And don’t be afraid of decimals! Unless you’re absolutely obsessed with round numbers, a 0.9-carat diamond can boast a better cut than a 1.0-carat.

Clarity

While clarity may be the most objective measure of a diamond, it’s also the least important. Diamond clarity is usually appraised under a microscope. Alternatively, eye-clean is an industry scale to describe the visual clarity of a diamond from a distance of 12 inches.

When it comes to smaller diamonds (less than 1 carat), the VS1-VS2 range is the sweet-spot for budget and beauty. For larger diamonds (greater than two carats), you may want to venture into VVS2 territory. In either case, some minor inclusions will be visible under microscopic inspection; however, it would take serious study to notice anything with the naked eye.

Majesty Tip: Look for signs of cloudiness when considering a diamond! Though cloudiness decreases a gem’s sparkle/scintillation, it isn’t considered an inclusion. Therefore, it’s not uncommon to discover a cloudy diamond retailing for the same price as a more brilliant one. Always check the diamond’s GIA report if you feel unsure.

Certainly, the allure of a flawless diamond is tempting. But perfectionism aside, why pay extra for something you can’t enjoy? By choosing a diamond in the VS range, you’ll save money that’s better spent on qualities like carat and cut.

Majesty Tip: Choose a diamond whose inclusions are on the girdle and not the table, which can be concealed beneath the ring's clasp.

Putting It All Together

We’ve covered a lot of ground, so let’s sum up the key points.

Don’t skimp on cut grade! Something between Very Good and Excellent is recommended.

Round diamonds are more forgiving. Emeralds wear their flaws on their sleeve. Of course, the rounder the cut, the more expensive the stone.

The colour-range sweet spot is between G and J. For Rounds, an H or J will look exquisite. For Emeralds, Radiants, and Ovals, aim a bit higher in the F to H range. Finally, for Princess, Cushion, and Asscher, somewhere between a G and I is best.

If size matters (as it often does), a lower density stone will give you more volume for less mass. In plain language: a bigger diamond for a smaller budget.

Conclusion

A diamond doesn’t have to be perfect. As with people, a few blemishes can add character and uniqueness to a stone. That said, those blemishes needn’t be eye-sores—knowing what to look for means that you can still choose a gorgeous stone for a fraction of the price.

Now that you’re armed with the 4Cs, it’s time to speak with an expert at Majesty Diamonds. We take the time to help you hone in on the perfect diamond for your taste and budget—whether you’re shopping for that special someone or just looking to treat yourself!